Retinol vs. Retinoids

What do retinol, adapalene, tazarotene and tretinoin all have in common? They’re all retinoids.

Retinol and other retinoids are powerful options for treating a range of skin concerns. But they each have unique properties. So which one is right for you? Delve into the differences so you can make an informed decision for your skincare routine.

Understanding retinoids

Retinoids have gained popularity in the skincare industry — and with dermatologists — thanks to their numerous benefits. “These potent ingredients work by stimulating cell turnover, promoting collagen production and diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles,” says Eric Yang, MD, a dermatologist at Geisinger.

But what are they exactly? And why do they have so many different names?

Retinoids are a class of compounds derived from vitamin A. “Think of retinoids as a general umbrella term under which different types of retinoids fall — each with unique properties,” says Dr. Yang. The most common forms include:

Retinol: A milder form of retinoid commonly found in over-the-counter skincare products
Tretinoin: The most potent retinoid available, often prescribed for severe acne or photoaging
Adapalene: The only prescription-strength retinoid that’s available over the counter, also known as Differin^® Gel

What are the benefits of retinoids?

Regular use of retinoids can offer a range of benefits for your skin. They can:

Reduce wrinkles
Promote collagen synthesis
Improve skin texture
Minimize pore size
Fade dark spots caused by sun damage or hyperpigmentation
Help regulate oil production, especially for acne-prone skin

“When incorporating retinoids into your skincare routine, it’s essential to start with a low concentration and gradually increase over time to minimize potential irritation,” says Dr. Yang.

Retinol vs. tretinoin: The key difference

Retinol is the mildest type of retinoid. It’s what’s typically found at a low concentration in over-the-counter skincare products. In contrast, when people talk of “retinoids,” they are usually referring to the potent vitamin A derivatives only available by prescription from a medical provider. Examples of prescription retinoids include tretinoin, adapalene, retinaldehyde and tazarotene.

“Over-the-counter retinols versus prescription-strength retinoids have different molecular structures, which makes them interact differently with your skin,” says Dr. Yang.

First, a quick chemistry lesson. This is the order in which all retinoids convert into retinoic acid — the final product that changes your skin:

1) Retinyl esters → 2) Retinol → 3) Retinaldehyde → 4) Retinoic acid

Retinol products typically contain retinyl esters or retinol. Since these are at the top of the sequence, there are more steps to convert into retinoic acid. That’s why they’re less potent, generally milder and less irritating to the skin.

Retinoids such as tretinoin, on the other hand, are prescription-strength chemicals that penetrate deeper into the skin to more effectively treat skin concerns. However, they’re also more likely to cause skin irritation, so introduce them to your skin gradually.

Choosing the right option for your skin type

Before incorporating retinol or retinoids into your skincare routine, be sure to consider these factors.

Skin type

Understanding your skin type is the first step to making the right choice for your unique skin concerns. If you have sensitive or dry skin, consider retinol, which is generally well-tolerated by more skin types. For oily or acne-prone skin, a prescription-strength retinoid may be more suitable.

Side effects

Retinoids are not for everyone, so be aware of potential side effects and how to minimize them. Both retinol and prescription retinoids can cause skin irritation, dryness, redness and flakiness, especially when you first start using them.

Personal skincare goals

“The approach for treating sun spots, acne and wrinkles will vary widely, and this will affect which product will be best for your needs,” says Dr. Yang. When deciding on using a retinoid type, it’s best to consult a dermatologist who can evaluate your skin and give you personalized recommendations.

Expert dermatologist tips for optimal results

Thinking about adding retinoids to your skincare routine? Here are some tips to help you achieve the best results.

1. Start slowly: When incorporating retinol or retinoids into your routine, begin with a low concentration and gradually increase over time. This allows your skin to adjust and minimizes the risk of irritation.

2. Consistency is key: To see the full benefits of retinol or retinoids, use them consistently. Whether you’re using them weekly or daily, it’s best to apply in the evening, as these ingredients can make your skin more sensitive to sunlight.

3. Combine with SPF: “It’s so important to protect your skin. Always apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 during the day,” says Dr. Yang. Applying retinoids only at night and maintaining a daily sunscreen routine will offer maximum protection against skin-damaging UV rays.

4. Layering products: When using retinoids, consider the order of applying your skincare products. Start with cleanser, followed by toner, serum and moisturizer. Let each product fully absorb before applying the retinoid to optimize its effectiveness.

By making an informed choice and following these tips, you can achieve a healthier, more radiant complexion while avoiding unwanted side effects. Everyone's skin is unique, so be sure to talk with a dermatologist or skincare professional to determine the best retinol or retinoid product and concentration for your specific needs.